Lucy Jarvis, Thurso (2026)

24/08/2021

I’m currently sitting on the 3rd of the 7 buses/trains on my return to Essex. The sun is setting over the Cairngorms as we make our way through the centre of the national park.

This journey, from one end of the UK to the other has been nothing shy of a life changing experience. The past 16 weeks have been a tremendous adventure and it cannot go unsaid that I owe an awful lot to an incredible handful of both new and old friends I’ve met and whom have joined me along the way.

I’d like to thank each and every person that has dropped me a call or a message, left me an original song sung over voicemail (Ciara that’s you!) responded to an update or shared with me how they are following along, you have all been with me in spirit and among the hardest parts of this trip have kept me somewhat sane and incredibly positive.

I would then like to thank everyone that has put me up, fed me and let me use their washing machines over these past few months, without your support and generosity this trip would have been a much bigger feat. To Debbie, Paul, Jack and Joe in Penzance, Kath and James in Mullion, Sara in Truro, Nick and Steph in St. Dennis, Matt in Trematon, Leila, Yohan, Helen and Valter in the Cotswolds, Alana, Benji, Maeve and Stephen in Nottingham, Emily and Phil in Sheffield and last but not least the lovely Marion in Inverness, a huge thank you!

And to the following establishments for hosting me on the house and/ or for going to great lengths to accommodate me in my stay.

The Betty Cottles Inn, Brookleys Bed and Breakfast, Cotswold Meadow Camping, Cosy Nook @ Old Beerhouse, Doveridge Somersal Mill Farm Campsite, Ashbourne Brook Farm Campsite, Barnard Castle Campsite and Inchbae Lodge.

And lastly, to those who joined me along the way, whether it were for 1 mile or 100 miles, you kept my spirits high and my heart grateful. Jack, Luke, Matt, Emily, Phil, Sam, Jess, Becca, Jane, Paul, Anna and Marion, thank you again!

This journey was as much a personal journey to a more rewilded self as it was to raise money for the rewilding ambitions of the wonderful Somerset Wildlands. The fundraiser reached £3K today! It will remain open a little while longer whilst a little more outreach is carried out as it would be fantastic to reach the initial goal of £4K. With that being said, I can’t wait to watch wonderful things unfold in the Somerset levels and will remain eternally grateful for the conversation on rewilding that the fundraiser has allowed me to have with so many people up and down the UK.

And on that note, I’m going to take a bit of a break!

Photo is from a beautiful sunrise in Thurso!

23/08/2021

16 weeks and two days. My final two days.

Mid Clyth to John o’ Groats

I woke up to the sound of the doorbell continuing to ring across the farm. I swiftly got my things packed up and began to make tracks towards Wick.

I won’t beat around the bush, the A9 has been dreadful these past few days. This last part of the journey was the trickiest to plan as there aren’t many other options over the road. So it was this, or the bog. The road has left me bitter, scared and angry. Three emotions that have made little of an appearance throughout this trip. There was no way I was going to let this determine my final leg so having read that from Wick the coastal path is manageable, that was my plan.

I paced my way into Wick, eyeing up a hot chocolate and an all day breakfast at the Tesco on the outskirts. I darted through over the bridge, through the town centre, along walkways, over crossings and eventually out the other side arriving at the Tesco. They had an enormity of plugs in the cafe, huge bonus. I plonked myself down in a comfy corner and pulled all my electrics out and plugged everything in. I ordered an oat hot chocolate and the vegan breakfast and enjoyed every last bit of it.

I spent a little while in here, it was fairly quite so I wasn’t much bother sat in the corner. I got everything charged up and then set about getting some shopping for my final couple of days. I bought a lot of ready to go food, reluctant at the thought of pulling my cook stove out the next morning because I knew I would just want to get going. That, and I cannot stand the thought of having to eat one more bowl of porridge, I’m totally off of it. I got everything I needed and a cheap bottle of bubbly which I would carry up to John o’Groats and set about heading to Sinclair’s Bay to find a pitch for the night.

Initially I’d planned on camping a little further up but found the perfect pitch at the far end. It was still early, but that was okay as I wanted to be up and away at a good time tomorrow. I threw my soggy tent up and nestled it amongst the wet sand, covering both myself and the inside of the tent. Nothing seemed to bother me much today, even the sand that had found it’s way into everything didn’t matter because I would be at John o’ Groats tomorrow.

I slept well and woke early the next morning, stuffing my face with a few cereal bars and a handful of blueberries. I chucked everything into my bag, but carefully cushioning the bottle of bubbly between the tent and sleeping bag. My first three miles were spent walking across Sinclair’s Bay. The sun was still making it’s way up and the clouds were scattered, perfect walking weather for my last day.

I reached the end of the beach at Tang head and continued on the coastal path around Keiss, following around Keiss harbour that donned a cloudy, nearly fluorescent shade of green within its sea walls. I continued on the path up and down along some slightly questionable paths, taken aback by the orthogonal joint rock formations along the shoreline. I approached Mervyn Tower Moment and took my first lunch stop of the day. I left here and continued on to Freswick Bay where I left the beach and took a small diversion around a bull field onto a back road which I followed on to also cut off the next corner by diverting through a farm. I rejoined the coastal path and followed it up, down, in and out of the cliff edge, some parts closer to the edge than I would have liked, but the views were spectacular.

The stacks of old red sandstone jutted out from the cliff edge with shags, skuas, razorbills, guillemots and kittiwakes, to name a few darting in and out of the coves. I caught a glimpse of the stacks of Duncansby in the distance and began to edge my way towards them. Just as I reached the hill of Crogodale I caught glimpse of the iconic John o’Groats hotel in the distance. It was surreal, I couldn’t believe I was actually looking at it. I had a little moment to myself at the peak, staring into the distance at my finish line. I continued on, passing Duncansby Head lighthouse and the beautiful bay on Sannick. I got chatting to a few people along here, people asking me if I had walked the whole way, like really the WHOLE way? One lady said ‘you look like you’ve come along way’ and I did. My eyes were puffy, hair was greasy, clothes dirty and my tremendous tan lines were just peaking out from under my tshirt shoulders. However, my poles holding me up firmly and my feet strongly placed as they guided me across this final stretch. I felt good, and strong and proud.

I stopped for a short rest at Sannick Bay, watching the seals pop their heads up along the coastline. Then, after retrieving my bag off of the ground for the final time I made my way towards the sign.

I half expected the chaos of the tourist trap that is John o’ Groats but part of me always hoped it would somehow be quiet. I took my final few strides through the John o’ Groats trail marker and made my way up towards the sign post. There were plenty of people hanging about so I asked a guy for a photo I received an agitated yes to which he then took one photo for me. Slightly disappointed I jutted off up to the Seaview Hotel for my finishing stamp and then over to the post office to get some cash out, eventually making my way back down to the sign. I decided to get checked in at the campsite and then head back over to hopefully find someone a little bit more enthusiastic to celebrate with. I stood in the que behind a young couple and offered to take their photos in exchange for a couple of me, to which they happily obliged and so we celebrated, a little more as I should have the first time round, fooling around with a cheap bottle of bubbly in the wind, whilst a que of people stood and watched slightly baffled, what a disaster!

22/08/2021

Week 16: Inchbae Wood to Mid Clyth, Highlands

I woke up under the crispy, white sheets of one of the comfiest beds I’ve ever slept in, cosy and warm, and intent. Least to say I was slightly reluctant to get up. I made a bowl of porridge, re-organised my bag and got the rest of my stuff packed up. I made my way down to the reception to return my key and thank Rachael once again for her extensive generosity.

I left Inchbae lodge under a much brighter sky than the previous day and begun to make my way up the A road that it sits upon. I had about 2 miles of road walking to do before cutting off onto a single track lane that would take me toward one of the most remote parts of Scotland that I’ve been to. I left the road, made my way through a big gate knowing it was about to get very, very quite. I started getting into a good, steady pace plodding along the track and then caught the sound of an engine whire coming up from behind me, I was startled. A big white pick up truck was heading towards me so I made my way over to grassy bank to let him pass. He pulled up beside me to ask where I was heading, I mean, there was only one way I could possibly be going. But he was deer stalking and was concerned that he didn’t want to find me up the side of one of the hills whilst stalking so I assured him I was sticking to the valley. He continued on and so did I. The track entered further and further into the middle of nowhere, the weather was one and then nothing, the wind picked up and dropped quickly, the sun shone and then big grey clouds loomed overhead. I got rained on a little from time to time but it stayed relatively clear and the wind was quick to dry any wet off. I passed one of the most remote estate houses in Scotland, which was completely empty and continued over a rickety iron bridge that crossed the river.

Shortly after crossing over to the other side of the valley, a rainbow fell out of the grey clouds and into the centre of the horizon. I continued on towards it, watching it disappear and reappear for a little while. I was approaching the end of it when I spotted two white horses trotting around the field where it met the ground.

I began to approach the end of my planned day and started to search around for a hidden spot to pitch up. I had just started to enter into a slightly denser landscape, through a couple of cattle grids and deer gates and I began to walk under a canopy of trees, it was almost wild looking. I collected water from the stream a little further up for my dinner and then made my way back up the track to a little patch next to the river that looked like a good spot to pitch up. By chance the rain came as soon as the tent was up, the wind following it shortly after, howling through the valley. Much like the rest of the day, it shortly settled and didn’t return.

In the morning I packed up my things and made my way up the remainder of the track where the trees, fauna and flora suddenly quadrupled. I had dreamt last night that a big cat reintroduction had taken place in the area, totally unaware I suddenly came face to face with a puma, again all just a dream, but a telling one. I continued into the forest and watched the landscape slowly change, the river banks and the tree tops, it was all so full of life. I came across a set of lone glass buildings. Large greenhouses I think they were, still slightly unsure as to what I was walking through I eventually spotted a sign. Alladale Wilderness Reserve, a rewilding project, of course it was. After a bit more research I would later come to understand that this location is a potential site pushing for the reintroduction of wolves.

What a privilege to have unknowingly walked through the area, organically becoming aware of the change in my surroundings. What a great start to the day. I left the main track that enters the project shortly after joining the start of a back road. I would be following this for the majority of the day into Bonar Bridge alongside the river Carron. I paused for a short break along the river bank, catching sight of the salmon run up the river, having caught sight of them for the second time I was overjoyed. I’d seen them just a few days prior at Rogie Falls too. Something I’ve wanted to see for a very long time ever since learning of their migration process. Baffled however that this was taking place in August, I thought they didn’t migrate and spawn until later in the year.

What a wild day. I continued on toward Ardgay and then over the wetland into Bonar Bridge, coming across a caravan car park on the bank of the river, plenty of camping spots, perfect. I ran over the road to pick up a few supplies in the spar and then returned, pitched up and got some dinner on the go.

I slept well here, and awoke excited as I knew I would be returning to the sea today. I had a long day pounding the pavements of another road, albeit a quite back one. The last two miles, catching me as they always do. It doesn’t matter how long or short the day, those last two miles are always a killer.

The final part of the day would have me join the A9 for the first time on the John o’Groats “trail”. Yeah, ok. I ducked in and out of the grassy verges for the next 3 miles, jogging for short stretches and then ducking against the wall to avoid oncoming traffic. A short taster of what was to come these next few days. However, I spotted my first sign for John o’ Groats, 76 miles. Stood on the side of a busy carriageway and was a little emotional. It was actually a place, that existed and I was actually walking towards it, for real.

I eventually ventured off of the A9 and down a small lane through Kirkton towards Ferry Wood, it was quite and peaceful and I was edging closer and closer to the coast once again. I followed a final track through the heather of the wood and spotted the shore line in the distance. I stupidly clambered through a bunch of heather to avoid adding an extra mile onto my day and emerged onto the beach covered in ticks, luckily able to brush them all off I made a point of doing a good check that night. I was at the sea! Once again and for the final time, I couldn’t be without it. I pitched my tent on the bank of the beach overlooking Tarbat Ness Lighthouse on the Willhaven Peninsula, cooked my dinner and put my head down for the night.

I made my way back through the long grass to the path, with a few more ticks lurking about. Heading up toward Golspie first, picking up a few snacks for the day. I followed the coastal path past Dunrobin Castle and across the pebble beaches of Strathsteven and Port a’ Gheamhraidh. Spotting a lot of seals chilling out on the beach. For the final part of the day I made my way into Brora, bought too much shopping and then headed across to the other side of town to find my campsite for the night, one with a much needed shower.

I couldn’t rave out this campsite any more, it sat right on the coast, sheltered on the other side of the sand dunes from the windy coast. Pat and Graham running the site let me leave my power bank with them to charge up overnight and were just generally incredibly welcoming. I settled into my spot, got a much needed long, hot shower, washed some of socks and other clothes, probably for the last time until the end and then made a huge tofu salad for dinner.

I felt well rested the next morning but the thought of joining the A9 for the next 4 days was looming over me. I’ve read enough to know that the coastal path is hard going from here on up until Wick so I didn’t even want to chance it, poor paths are a bigger gripe for me than stupid roads. left the site and took a slow dander toward the A9 reluctantly setting foot on the grassy verge. I’d planned for a short day to Helmsdale to take my time along the verges and I needed it, I took not one photograph, not wrote a single word, all day, it was a tremendous slog. At one point I jumped down a brick wall to avoid a huge cattle truck and essentially got myself stuck in the field below the road, it was ridiculous. I arrived in Helmsdale after a total ordeal of a day and got word of a cracking chip shop so that’s exactly where I headed, a few bits to pick up in the shop and then I trundled back on myself slightly to a good camping spot on the coast.

I had a good rest last night which I was endlessly grateful for as I had another day of it today. Cars overtaking trucks at ridiculous places etc etc, it just goes on and on. But I met Maurice this morning, on the opposite side of the A9 walking towards me. He had started at John o’Groats the previous morning and is walking around 30-40 miles a day with an aim to reach lands end within 30 days or so, unbelievable. Maurice was diagnosed with Prostate cancer last year and has been given 3-5 years to live. His walk is to raise awareness for prostate cancer, the least to say, he is an absolute inspiration.

I continued on, slogging away at the A9, catching a slightly easier afternoon after lunch. The road is exhausting, at no point can you switch off. It requires your every sense to be looking and listening ahead for those lorries, making sure to get a good footing in the ditch and something to cling onto for when they whizz past, because that gust is almighty.

About mid way through the day I was making my way down a steep incline where the bank was made up of large chunks of gravel, whilst trying to be stealthy and move over from the road I totally stacked it falling straight down on knees on the gravel, ouch. Luckily the road was empty so I pulled myself up, checked for damage (all clear) and got on my way. The weight of my bag gave me no leeway but to take the hit. I arrived in Dunbeath, running to the spar just in time before it shut to find that it was sparsely stocked. I frantically looked around for something, anything I could eat as I was only seeing pies and cheese in my horizon. It wasn’t until I spotted a slightly hidden extra room filled with tins, noodles and chutney that I dashed into grabbing anything I could throw together for a few days worth of food. I made my way down to the harbour and found a lovely little pitch next to a couple of motorhomes, meeting Yvonne who was touring in one parked next to me.

The next morning was windy but the harbour was peaceful. I woke up with a pain in my knee and checked it out to find a few big bruises from my tumble yesterday (and I don’t particularly bruise that easily) however, it was nothing to worry about. I packed up and started to get my tent down when Yvonne’s two daughters Mai-c and Evie-k came over to say hello! Mai-c had written a beautiful letter for me about my trip, to say I am incredibly touched would be an understatement. Thank you Mai-c for my letter and Evie-k for both introducing yourselves! What a wonderful way to start the day.

I returned to the road in good spirits with my good intentions set for the days instalment of the A9. It was really windy this morning, which worried me a little bit as it was in small pockets so would come and go within the breaks in the landscape. However once I got going it didn’t feel so bad after a couple of miles on the road. It was an uneventful day, which was good. Nothing major happened and I was safely at my days end point. I found a little pitch not far from the A9 on the camper park up app and figured it was my best shot at a semi decent spot with a water supply. The land in the area was all farm fields, not somewhere I would want to go looking for water let alone pitch a tent. I took the hit and paid the tenner, for ought but water but it was safe and would do, no risks to be taken at this point of the game. The farm had a doorbell alarm on it’s security camera that at first I thought was sensor triggered, but having set up and got into bed it quickly became apparent that it was not, it was just really really annoying. It rang every 1 minute 45 seconds, yes I timed it. And it kept me sleeping lightly for the majority of the night. I should have just stuck the ear plugs in, but then again I prefer to be somewhat aware of my surroundings, it was a bit of a strange site anyway. I ended the week with a big bowl of noodles and nestled down into my sleeping back ready to tackle my final two days.

20/08/2021

Well, it’s been a journey!

Will update with my final week over the coming days!

19/08/2021

Week 15: Kytra Lock to Inchbae Wood, Highlands

Having had an early night at Kytra lock we got up and got on our way into Fort Augustus, just two miles North. Fort Augustus is where my 6th and final chapter begins. When I initially mapped out my route I divided it into 6, printed and bound my maps to make them as lightweight as possible and then sent them ahead to friends. I collected my final booklet from Jane and now it was time to put it to work.

We made use of the lock showers at Fort Augustus, for we had collected a key at the start of the Great Glen Way that allows you to access all of the facilities along the route, it was incredibly useful. It had been a few hot days since I’d last had one, so I made the most of the fresh feeling.

I’ve discovered that fish and chip shops up this far are starting to cook in vegetable oil again, it seemed to be all the chippies around North England/ border areas cook in beef drippings, which is a huge no from me so I was more than grateful to find that one in Fort Augustus that didn’t. Anna treated the both of us to a curry chip and onions rings which we sat by the lock staircase to enjoy whilst planning out the rest of the day.

Anna’s blisters were really bad today, in fact they were borderline infected. However, I needed to keep walking so we decided to reconvene later on at the hostel further down Loch Ness and then find a camp spot from there. I headed out of a jam packed Fort Augustus onto the Great Glen Way and left Anna to run her errands in the town.

It was a fairly uninteresting walk along the track within a huge tree plantation. I managed the odd view of Loch Ness and a bit of monster spotting thrown in though. So I plodded on, for hours through the woodland, seeing little but a couple of other people along the way. I was trundling along when suddenly a little red squirrel darted across the path and up onto the bank to my left, out of shock I actually stopped breathing for about half a minute, staring at the beautiful little being that he was. I eventually took a big gasp of air, scaring him away and straight up the tree. A red squirrel, another first for me, spotted in the Scots pine alongside Loch Ness, what a dream.

I took a short break plonked down right in the middle of the gravel track. My biggest problem over the past two weeks has been avoiding the long grass and tree canopy because of the ticks. I’ve found a few on me, a couple still crawling about so I’ve been able to brush them off easily but then a handful who have decided to bite, most of which has been on my legs. A tick check is now a regular part of my day. I’ve avoided sitting anywhere near heather and ferns, so if there is a patch of gravel or tarmac close that usually does the trick. Plonking myself down onto my waterproof bag cover I decided to take 5 minutes. I’d found a vegan ‘bueno’ wafer bar in Fort Augustus and I was going to sit and enjoy every last bit of it. I’m not kidding you, it was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten, but I’m sure hiker hunger has played a little part in that.. I indulged myself for a short moment and then decided I should probably get going again.

The afternoon turned drizzly and grey, with a forecast of a thunderstorm looming so I paced on through the plantation with sights on the hostel to meet Anna. I gave her a ring as I arrived as I had to cross over the A road at the bottom of the hill that she’d warned me was really busy. Anna was my second pair of eyes on the other side and quickly waved me over when the road was clear.

We checked out the hostel’s camping pitch and then headed inside to fill up our water bottles but it was beautiful inside, and looked nothing like the exterior. It had a warm, cosy, wood cabin vibe and there were a handful of people hanging out in the common area eating and chatting, what a place. Anna’s Mum, Jane had offered to put us up for the night in the hostel, which we stood and thought about for a minute before enquiring about a room for the night. They had a room for us, so that’s where we stayed, thank you so much Jane!

The next morning Anna decided to hang back at the hostel and gosh I really wanted to as well. It was wet and windy and I did not want to leave. I eventually got out the door and made serious headway for Drumnadrochit. It was lashing it down with rain, so there was no way I was stopping anywhere to sit, I’d be even more drenched. I had my sights on the pub and that’s where I was heading. Along the way I met Nyky and Arthur who has also been walking the Great Glen Way North and they had a fantastic pace going, both of them are runners so that will be why! I got myself sped up and we walked and chatted our way into Drumnadrochit. It was such a pleasure to share this time walking with them both, we exchanged trail stories, kit failures, info on what does and doesn’t work so well. The few miles down into the town absolutely flew in. We parted ways where we met the road, they were off to explore the castle and I was looking for a hot drink!

The rain had just about left the sky and I found a slightly soggy picnic bench to park myself on. It was nearly half 2 so I was really hungry, I inhaled my lunch and then had a quick chat with Anna, blisters were healing up and she was on her way to Drumnadrochit!! I found the most beautiful little cafe, Cafe 82 and got us a table with a coffee for Anna and a hot chocolate for me on the way. The vegan options in here were incredible, I had an oat milk hot chocolate which was everything I needed and more. They had cake too, but I’d eaten so much for lunch I thought best to save the pennies for another day. We both indulged in our drinks and then began to make our way out of the town to find a camping spot. We had a bit of a steep climb out and up through the woods, which started off a tree plantation and then turned into a community forest project. We wouldn’t know this until the next day so we wandered around the wicker huts, wooden out buildings and cabins in total and utter confusion. It was in the middle fo nowhere. To get a better view of the lake we followed the boardwalk down to the end where a bird hide sat. I thought we may have been able to get a good spot on the edge of the lake but it was all flooded. Then, only whilst standing in the bird hide we figured we could camp in here, it was huge and so that’s what we did. We had the comfiest evening in the dry shelter of the hide and popped the tent up in the corner for a bit of added warmth.

We both had a warm and cosy sleep, and got up and going in good time the next day just incase anyone was wanting to use the hide. We didn’t have far to go into Inverness so we were pounding through the miles. Just as we started to see rooftops and lampposts poking out through the trees it started to lash it down with rain again. I would probably describe it as the worst rain I’ve ever walked in, it was torrential. We were totally soaked the way through. My feet were so wet where the rain had got in through my socks that my shoes had formed a suction with my feet inside the shoe and was consequently putting an enormous amount of pressure on my feet from every angle, it was incredibly painful. We got down to the road and found a bus shelter to perch in for a minute. I decided to ring my socks out which helped a great deal but 10 minutes after we got walking again we got hit with another lashing. We were on the straight and narrow to our campsite now and nothing was going to get in our way. We arrived and ducked under a tree for a moment before hesitantly opening the reception door. I was scared to flood the place I was carrying so much water. The campsite owner urged us to come in and as we did he pulled out towels, a mop and a heater for us to dry ourselves up with, we couldn’t have asked for anything more. We got checked in and reorganised ourselves and then we caught a break in the rain. A quick dash to our camping spot to get the tent up whilst it was dry and then we pulled all of our wet clothes off and jumped in. The rain started again shortly after we got in.

It was still early afternoon so we got changed into dry clothes and got our semi dry waterproofs back on ready to make a dash up to the shop and chip shop for dinner and some food for the next morning. I ended up falling asleep for the best part of an hour. It got to about 7 and we decided it was about as good as it was going to get so we went to head out. I rang the chip shop up just before we left to ask them what they cook their chips in, just so as not to waste the walk. The answer I got on the other end of the phone was ‘a fryer’ and no, she wasn’t joking. I was trying so hard to hold it together before putting the phone down but I managed to ask again, what sort of oil do you cook your chips in? And then I got the answer I was after. We made our way up to the chippy and got a big portion each, and it was worth the walk, they were delicious! Stuffed and content we returned to the campsite, chucked all of our wet clothes in the tumble dryer and then got ourselves in the shower.

The next morning Anna was up around 8 to head on home to Belfast. I got up to see her off and then promptly got back into bed. I was taking a rest day at the campsite today and knew I would be spending a lot of it in my sleeping bag. It was nice to reflect on another great week spent in wonderful company, with a lot of silly photos and chuckled to remember.

I ate, napped, wrote a little, ate again, napped again and wrote a little more, it was exactly what I needed. This would be my last rest day until I reach John o’Groats so I was going to make the most of it.

I’m grateful for having slept so much during the day because a huge group of school kids from London turned up that night, it sounded like they had just canoed the Great Glen Way or so it seemed. I think they had spent about 10 days away, I couldn’t believe they were all still so lively. I had a late night and an early start, they were yapping away again at half 6. Anyway, it got me up and so I had my breakfast, got my things together and started to make my way towards the city centre.

I made my way out of the city, and over a very windy Kessock Bridge. I left the A road as soon I got over to North Kessock, darting down towards the sea as soon as possible. I followed the promenade along through the town, stopping for a while to watch a pod the seals swimming around. Slowly continuing along the coast towards Milton, I didn’t have far to walk today so was taking my time. I stopped on the edge of Charlestown at a little picnic spot for lunch which is where I got chatting to Marion. Marion recently hosted a lady called Karen Penny who is currently walking the coast of the UK and Ireland. She spotted me and my big backpack and was curious to know what I was up to. We were chatting away about mine and Karen’s journeys and Marion suggested about meeting up for part of my walk at the weekend, how wonderful. I gave one of my cards and she shortly left with her dog. 5 minutes later she pulled up with her car. She had been thinking about how she could help me on my journey and offered to put me up for the night.

I know a good soul when I meet one, so trusting my gut I loaded my backpack into the boot of her car and we arranged to meet up down the road in a few hours. We met and walked a little further along with her dog Rogie. I made sure to tap a bus stop on the main road so I knew where to return to the next morning. We then looped around to head back towards the car. We made our to Marion’s beautiful home which she made me feel so welcome in. I met her lodger Kevin, who is only from Southend! (Those not from Essex.. that’s very close to my home town!) we chatted away and then Marion offered me the use of the bath to get freshened up in and even gave me a dash or perfume to wear. An absolute treat I’ve not known for a while! I soaked in the bath (and may have fallen asleep) and then returned downstairs to be welcomed to join Marion and Kevin for a beautiful vegetable ragu and homemade sundried tomato bread. I will be eternally grateful for the generosity Marion has shared with me today. The three of us joined at the table a beautiful dinner together and then chatted away over a cup of tea before retiring to bed. An actual bed! It’s been a while!

The next morning, I awoke well rested. It was so nice not to have to climb up and out of bed but rather just out of bed. Marion dropped me back off at the bus stop that we walked to the previous day, we walked for about 10 minutes together and then departed where Marion returned with Rogie to her car.

I spent the day doing a lot of road walking, all with pretty good paths and verges on them so that’s been a plus. Toward the end of the day I was approaching a footpath through a huge field, which had almost no signs of any cows in at all to arrive at the end and find a huge bull standing right in front of the gate with a number of other cows surrounding him. A quick decision was needed so I made a big loop to the far corner ready to drop my pack if need be or jump the barbed wire fence, then I spotted another gate. He was watching me and started to move as I was making my way across the field, but he didn’t get much closer before I jumped the gate and got myself out of there! A group of fisherman I’d chatted to briefly were perched in a hut in the next field keeping watch on the situation. Phew, I was out, and he was still in. I made my way up to my final stretch of road for the day before arriving at a campsite Contin where I was planning to try my luck on getting a pitch. I was lucky enough, it was pretty quite so I got checked in and pitched up. It was only early afternoon so I had myself a little nap and then decided to get some dinner on the go. Meanwhile and pitched up next to me, they had spent the last week or so cycling the North Coast 500, wow! They just had their final leg into Inverness to complete tomorrow. I didn’t even know people cycled that route so it was great to meet two more women who had been cycling it together!

I slept well and had another late morning, both regular occurrences. But I had given myself a short day today so didn’t want to leave too early or it would throw my day off. I picked up a little bit of extra lunch for the next couple of days and then made my way through 12 miles of forestry track. Wow, it was almost unbearably frustrating. I had a bit of a pace on so arrived at my destination of Inchbae Lodge in good time. I’d read that they put up cyclists in the pub garden if you got a drink or a bite to eat so that’s what my plan was. It had been drizzly all day and was progressively getting worse as I closed in on the pub. When I arrived I was met by the lovely, recently new owner Rachael. I ordered a drink and a jacket potato and plonked myself down. We chatted for a while about what I was doing while the rain persisted to lash it down, and just as they brought me out my jacket potato, she insisted she would put me up in a room for the night as there was an empty one. I was totally blown away by the generosity, I was practically speechless. I finished my delicious spud and was given a key to a beautiful lodge room where I had an amazing shower and then ended my week sat in another comfy bed with a big blanket writing and drinking tea.

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