22/01/2024
Our trip kicked off with a bang. It was an exhausting flight from Tallinn to Istanbul, spending the night there and taking the next flight to Panama City. A side note: if the time between two flights in Istanbul is 12+ hours, Turkish Airlines should provide a hotel, which they did.
We started our trip to Panama on Saturday at around 5 PM and finally arrived at our accommodation in Panama by Monday morning at around 4 AM (EST time).
Panama City has a nice promenade, some good restaurants and bars, a beautiful old town, and, of course, the world-famous engineering masterpiece - the Canal, connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific and being the only option for many ships passing that route. We also visited it.
We agreed to meet with a friend we met in Vietnam. And of course, we found a craft beer brewery (La Rana Dorada) with some juicy IPAs, La Blanche (Belgium style), and Porter among other good beers. I was impressed by the quality.
We stayed three nights in Panama City and took the metro to the airport. It's worth mentioning that the metro costs around 0.85 USD per person, while a taxi has a fixed price of 19 USD (do the math). However, Google doesn't really give the option for the metro (it is new), and it is possible to pay with a regular bank card, Google, or Apple Pay (touch payment) while entering the gate (no need to buy a ticket separately, just like in Singapore).
About an hour later, we arrived at the airport, waited a long time to check-in. At the check-in counter, however, we were denied boarding the flight. So it turned out Panama, among almost all other South American countries, is on the high-risk list, requiring a yellow fever vaccination certificate passport, which we didn't have. It didn't come up during our trip research. The reality was that we lost the flights, and our trip took a major hit. Our accommodation in Nicaragua was not refundable anymore (expired two days ago), and the flight itself to Nicaragua is the most expensive in Central America, easily costing over 400 USD if not booked a month or more beforehand.
We needed to quickly adapt to this new situation, do research, and planning. So we took the trip back to Panama City center and went to the craft beer bar. It's funny, but it's true. Taking a good beer, calming down first helps to take the stress off. Afterward, it is easier to come up with different options, and we did. We decided not to give up but also have a plan B. The requirement was to spend at least 10 days outside of risk zone countries. Costa Rica was the only viable option, which also didn't have restrictions coming from Panama.
Option 1 was to travel by bus for 16 hours to San Jose (Costa Rica), take another bus directly from there 3 hours later to Rivas (Nicaragua), which is another 8 hours (officially). And try to get in from Costa Rica-Nicaragua land border control. If this fails, we would need to get some local bus or taxi back to Costa Rica's bigger center and go to Playa Hermosa (as a plan, we decided it would be our best option). Safe to say, the stress was peaking. We had three points of failure.
San Jose bus station, where they registered us and checked documents. A Brazilian guy needed to present a yellow fever pass to the border official in this station. We got through.
We took the bus to Nicaragua's border, where we first exited the country (paid exit fee 8 USD per person and spent around 1 hour doing so), went to Nicaragua's border, and spent another 1.5 hours getting through, but we were successful.
An hour later, we were in Rivas as our gateway to Ometepe island. And oh yes, we were so relieved. It felt like now our adventure could kick off, which seemed like a distant dream some 26 hours before. In the end, we spent some 30 hours on buses to reach the place we should have just taken 2-hour flights with a layover in El Salvador. But we were there, and we were happy. We ate our first Nicaraguan meal (some quesadillas) and a local beer, Tona, changed USD to the local currency (cordoba), and bought a local SIM card for internet and calls. Now we were set for taking a ferry to Ometepe island.