John Maillard Artist

John Maillard Artist NZ artist John Maillard explores myth, nature & memory through layered ink, photo & mixed media. 30+ years exhibiting in NZ & the UK.

Up at around five this morning and out walking by six, setting off through the darkness. I managed not to get too lost g...
14/09/2026

Up at around five this morning and out walking by six, setting off through the darkness. I managed not to get too lost getting out of town this time, thanks to the Buen Camino app.

After about 7 km I came across a village and stopped for a lovely breakfast of fruit and hot chocolate. Then the day began to heat up. The landscape opened into vineyards, rolling hills and beautiful red earth — completely different again from the earlier stages of the Camino.

I eventually reached Nájera, where we stopped for lunch, before heading back out into the heat. From there came a long, hot climb through pine forest before finally reaching Azofra and the Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal.

Clothes washed, showered, and now getting ready for a homemade dinner and a very early night. They even have a little pool where you can sit and cool your feet, which feels like absolute luxury after walking in this heat.

All in all, a great day’s walk through a very open, beautiful landscape. Lots of interesting conversations along the way too. One of the lovely things about the Camino is that you keep leapfrogging the same people — you pass them, then they pass you, and somehow you keep meeting again further down the road.

Cooling off at Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal de Azofra
14/09/2026

Cooling off at Albergue de Peregrinos Municipal de Azofra

Plaza Mayor in Navarrete, Spain.The sculpture is called A por agua a la fuente and commemorates the women of Navarrete w...
13/09/2026

Plaza Mayor in Navarrete, Spain.

The sculpture is called A por agua a la fuente and commemorates the women of Navarrete who used to collect water there and carry it home in the local cántaro navarretano. The fountain itself dates from 1884.

I arrived in Navarrete at about two o’clock today, very happy to finally get here. I’ve treated myself to a room for the...
13/09/2026

I arrived in Navarrete at about two o’clock today, very happy to finally get here. I’ve treated myself to a room for the night — only €35, but I have my own en suite and, more importantly, some privacy. So no snoring, shouting or people staying up all hours tonight. I’m looking forward to a shower and a nice early night.

It was a long, very hot walk today. I walked with some other pilgrims early in the morning and eventually reached Logroño, which was a beautiful city. Along the way I met an English couple with a Jack Russell and somehow managed to spend a good half hour talking about Jack Russells — as you do on the Camino.

Leaving Logroño, the Camino seemed to go through an endless stretch of parkland, past a large lake and out through the countryside. It felt as though I was walking through the park for at least two hours before finally reaching Navarrete.

I’m now happily settled in for the afternoon. Altogether, a lovely day’s walking, and thankfully not too many aches and pains. The biggest challenge today was simply the heat — it was incredibly hot.

Another day down the road.

12/09/2026

Today’s Route 12 September

151 kilometres down the road now.Today I stopped in Viana after a shorter walk of about 18 km. I arrived around one o’cl...
12/09/2026

151 kilometres down the road now.

Today I stopped in Viana after a shorter walk of about 18 km. I arrived around one o’clock, lay down on the bed, and promptly slept until four. Absolutely wonderful.

Later I sat around the courtyard with some English and Canadian pilgrims and decided to draw the courtyard while everyone relaxed. My feet are still sore, but much better than they were, which is encouraging.

The walk itself was beautiful: rolling countryside, vineyards dotted across the landscape, ancient irrigation systems running through the fields, and a lovely rest beneath the trees along the way.

Viana is in full festival mode. Everyone is dressed in white and red, and tomorrow they’re having a small bull run through the streets, followed by fireworks. Sadly, I’ll miss all of it because I’ll be walking another 23 km. Part of me would love to take an entire day off here, but I don’t quite feel I have the time.

All in all, a lovely day — and 151 km of the Camino behind me now.

Thank you for all your messages. I really do appreciate them.

Sunrise breakfast after the first 8 kilometres
12/09/2026

Sunrise breakfast after the first 8 kilometres

Los Arcos, Camino Santiago Frances
11/09/2026

Los Arcos, Camino Santiago Frances

My tracking video decided not to work today, so unfortunately all you’ve got are pictures — but it was a long, hot and s...
11/09/2026

My tracking video decided not to work today, so unfortunately all you’ve got are pictures — but it was a long, hot and surprisingly fun day.

I went to bed last night genuinely feeling as though my legs might fall off, but after nine hours’ sleep in a tiny, cheap boutique hotel — one of those places with no staff where everything is booked and accessed online — I woke up feeling remarkably human again.

I set off with plenty of water and a packed lunch I’d made the night before: bread, cheese and olives. Simple Camino food. Along the way there were plenty of little bars to stop at, and, as always, lots of conversations with people from all over the place.

There was one stretch of about 12 kilometres that became fairly painful, especially as the day heated up. It must have been somewhere in the mid-thirties, or at least it certainly felt like it. The white gravel and chalky Camino paths seem to throw the heat straight back at you, so by the end I was very pleased to arrive.

The albergue I had planned to stay in was full, so I ended up at the municipal albergue instead — and it turned out to be a great choice. A fabulous kitchen, lovely Belgian volunteers, and a really friendly atmosphere.

Because I’m still finding genuinely good vegetarian food surprisingly difficult to come across, I decided to cook for myself. I bought whatever vegetables I could find and started making a sort of improvised vegetable risotto. I couldn’t find any stock, so I’m basically inventing it as I go along. Even a couple of Spanish people have wandered over and said it looks good, so perhaps I’m doing something right.

All in all, another fantastic 21 kilometres.

The clothes are washed, the chores are done, I’ve had an ice cream, and dinner is bubbling away. My feet are much better too, and I’ve plastered my legs and feet in magnesium cream.

Tomorrow is a bigger one — around 28 kilometres — so it will be an early night and as much sleep as I can possibly get before everything starts again.

Good night, everyone. Another Camino day done.

On the way to Cirauqui, Navarra.
10/09/2026

On the way to Cirauqui, Navarra.

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