08/31/2026
Day 11, August 18th, I drove from Grand Teton National Park to Craters of the Moon National Monument in the bottom center of Idaho. As if the other days weren’t, this was one full day!
Up before daylight, I headed for Mormon Row, a collection of historic homesteads dating to the turn of the 19th century preserved within Grand Teton National Park. This area has become among the most popular places within the park in recent years, and understandably so. Photographers come en masse to capture the historic T.A. Moulton Barn backed by the Teton’s imposing Cathedral Group. I drove by the site the day before to get an idea of its condition and any other factors that might affect my morning here. Having seen that the famed Moulton Barn was an active construction zone and wanting to avoid the crowds anyway, I instead set my sights on the barn of a less popular homestead in the same complex.
Perhaps not as sprawling as the Moulton Barn and not of the same appealing log construction, this humble gambrel barn, built ca. 1908, suited the bill no less. It looked incredible underneath the looming profile of the Front Range, and the weather accompanying the sunrise could not have been more sensational. An approaching thunderstorm turned this sleepy sunrise into anything but!
I watched the radar anxiously as the storm dumped rain on Jackson and slowly moved northeast towards my position. The horizon west of Blacktail Butte only seemed to grow darker as the rest of the sky lightened. A few minutes after sunrise, a beam of light was cast upon the Tetons. I photographed in a furry to make use of the fleeting conditions. Then, minutes later still, the sun finally arched over the west hill and spilled into the Snake River Valley. It was exhilarating! One of those monuments that puts you into a mood of pure elation.
A rainbow appeared over Blacktail Butte followed by the downpour. I passed a large gathering of photographers capturing the John Moulton Barn before making it back to my truck, whereupon the storm dropped hail briefly. Damp and a bit chilly, it was no matter. What an unforgettable sunrise!
From Mormon Row, I embarked on a morning driving tour of the park. I stopped often to photograph historic structures along the way, including the Chapel of Transfiguration, Menors Ferry, and Chapel of the Sacred Heart, to name a few. The Bar BC Dude Ranch was particularly exciting and unexpected. A long cobblestone road leads you from the main park route to the Snake River. Along the river’s floodplain lies the extensive Bar BC Dude Ranch, established in 1912 by Struthers Burt and Dr. Horace Carncross. Much of the historic property is in disrepair today, but it’s evident where the National Park Service and the Western Center for Historic Preservation have attempted to stabilize structures. As I wandered about this vast campus, it was fascinating to imagine how swiftly white settlers left their mark on the landscape here. The homesteads and ranches within the park were inhabited for only a few decades before the park was established, remaining for most of their existence more so as beloved museum pieces than working properties.
I could certainly have spent much longer in Grant Teton National Park. There is an abundance of places to explore, and I hiked not one mile of trail. However, given the popularity of the park, I had no intentions of being around for long. Quieter fields surely awaited me ~200 miles away at Craters of the Moon in Idaho, and so I hit the road with plenty of detours in mind.
From Teton Pass, I dropped into the Teton Valley of Idaho, and then an ascent of Pine Creek Pass deposited me into Swan Valley. Here, the valley floor became exceptionally hilly and devoid of trees. Whether covered in prairie grasses or wheat, it’s a landscape I find most photogenic.
I had my eye set keenly on barns, of which I encountered plenty. Near Ririe, Idaho, I spotted a barn much unlike all the others. Its ground floor walls were comprised entirely of quarried volcanic tuff, and it was topped by a simple gable roof (an atypical feature in this land seemingly dominated by gambrel roofs). I pulled down the driveway and met the owners there, Kym and Lois, to inquire about photographing their barn. They were immediately receptive to the idea (I wasn’t the first one to ask), and after photographing it and learning from Kym their family’s history on the farm, I was invited to dinner! One of my goals throughout this trip has been to socialize more and make stronger connections as I travel from place to place, and I should like to think a dinner invitation accomplishes that goal well.
I reported back to the Ferguson house at 6:00pm after a brief visit to their daughter’s farm and to Ririe. We indulged in a splendid meal of pork ribs and sweet corn (grown on the farm). Our conversation covered topics ranging from moose encounters to life in Ohio, and to wildfires, high water, and the way things change. I thanked Kym and Lois for the hospitality and bid farewell promptly following dinner. Though now approaching sunset and still with nearly two hours of driving ahead of me, the pleasure of enjoying a homecooked meal among good company left me feeling fulfilled and content.
Pivot irrigation has a certain romance to it at sunset. Driving along the flat Snake River Plain, one can’t go without observing the many different arrangements and appearances of these vast watering systems. The low sun occasionally cast tiny but vibrant rainbows through the mist spewed out by these massive rolling machines. All of this suddenly vanishes west of Idaho Falls as you enter the heart of Idaho’s lava fields. The row crops disappear and are instead replaced by the native, hardy sagebrush. This shrub extends for miles off into the distance, blanketing even the buttes that pe*****te the far horizon.
The landscape felt so alien, and it was truly remarkable commuting through it at dusk. The ground, sky, and mountains turned purple and blue before finally yielding to the night. I was relieved to find a campsite easily enough upon my arrival to Craters of the Moon. I organized content for a bit and enjoyed photographing the night sky with both the Milky Way and a crescent moon shining bright. Sixteen hours ago, I departed Grand Teton NP. How wildly different the landscape had become!