02/12/2025
At the end of spring, Huasos drive their herds through an intricate labyrinth of trails, crossing mountains and valleys to reach the high-altitude grazing lands where sweet, fertile grasses grow in abundance. They leave the animals there until just before the first snowfall, when they return to retrieve them. By then, the livestock has wandered far and wide, requiring a long and meticulous search that stretches across vast, rugged terrain.
To survive in the Cordillera, one must be fearless. As we rode higher into the mountains, the midday sky was cloudless, and the landscape transformed—the lush, humid valleys gave way to shrubs and wild bush. The rocky terrain slowed our passage, forcing us to dismount at times, leading our horses and pack mules on foot. By nightfall, we reached our first campsite along the banks of a river, its icy waters just beginning to thaw with the arrival of spring. We slept in the open, beneath a sky so clear and vast that it felt as though we could reach out and touch the stars.
The next day, we continued our ascent, forging through fast-flowing rivers, navigating the aftermath of the earthquake I had arrived to witness. Massive boulders, shaken loose from the mountains, lay strewn in patterns like skipping stones on a lake, leaving deep craters in the earth. That night, as we sat around a bonfire—singing, drinking wine, and gazing at the endless stretch of stars—the ground trembled once more.
To be a Huaso is more than a profession; it is a way of life, a philosophy, and an honor.