29/10/2018
Have been a long process since I started this “surf photography” path. Have been actually a discovering of all surf culture. The last 2 years have learned that surfing is much more than getting waves, is actually a complete mindset and perspective of life.
Because You-Surf wake up at 5 am to get the clean conditions, you drive hours to get out of the city mode, you work harder to save money for your new board, you prepare yourself physically to improve performance, you move in closer to the beach!, you work your mind to don’t be scared or you spend hours waiting for the perfect shot (my ones 😂).... and so on.... surf is a way of living, a decision, a life-changing decision that you can never take back. Once you surf you can’t stop.
That’s why I’m so amazed by it, I’m in love with all the things you can learn around surfing people and makes me more humble and thankful every day. Is so hard but when you get one wave is heaven. 100% Stokeness 😁
I started taking pictures in 2016 but today, all this process took me to my roots again, drawing, painting...getting more connected.
So I thought.... what if I put both together? That would be even more fun for me! And plus my friend will be super happy with their draws so, I started. I 've never shared my handmade draws but a few days ago someone told me that they were good and I should share them ❣️🌺
From now on Surf will be a place to share creativity around surfing culture 🙂 photos/paintings/ illustrations.
This one is the first of the firsts! Raw version
The first babe of many to come
📸 pic + 🎨draw
Surfer: Martina
Spot: Bondi Beach
🌺