28/12/2024
EPISODE 1 - First stop on the Way to Australia
In the past few months, I’ve noticed a significant shift in my photography. First, I changed my lens and now exclusively use a 24mm (which, on my cropped-frame camera, functions as a 38mm). My focus has shifted from seeking beauty and perfection to simply documenting what I see—raw and unembellished. With this new perspective, I’ve decided to create a series of mini-reportages, each capturing a significant story from the past few months.
My journey began in the Maldives, on the island of Thulusdhoo—the capital of Kaafu Atoll, renowned for its surf spots. It was the start of the high season, but luck wasn’t on my side as it rained the entire time. Fortunately, this wasn’t my first visit, so I have other, sunnier memories of the island to hold onto.
This time, however, I left with a bittersweet impression—not just of Thulusdhoo but of the Maldives as a whole. Perhaps the constant rain colored my experience, but the island felt different. In less than two years since my first visit, Thulusdhoo has transformed into an open construction site. Towering concrete buildings now line the beach, and the amount of trash on the island has increased dramatically. Every evening, the waste is burned in a designated area you’d best avoid.
I couldn’t shake the sense that I was in the middle of a money-making machine, one powered by the cheap labor of workers from Bangladesh, Nepal, Myanmar, and India. For many of them, the Maldives must feel like a gilded cage. Despite being on a local island, I found it harder to connect with the locals this time. They seemed distant, perhaps weary of the constant influx of tourists. The island was also unusually quiet, with little activity at the start of October.
So, I spent most of my days relaxing. I savored delicious tuna-based dishes, played countless rounds of Uno, and found solace in the rhythm of daily life. The calls to prayer from the local mosque punctuated the hours, while long walks—frequently interrupted by rain—led to contemplative moments over coffee by the beach.
I still enjoyed my time there, but I left with the impression that the Maldives is yet another destination turned into a tourist amusement park marked by significant natural and human exploitation.