Shine photo & video

Shine photo & video Contact information, map and directions, contact form, opening hours, services, ratings, photos, videos and announcements from Shine photo & video, Photographer, Adisu Gebeya, Addis Ababa.

12/05/2022

Shine Photo and Video Service

ላሰቡት ሠርግ፤ቀለበት፤አንቨርሰሪ፤ልደት አልያም ለሌሎች  የፎቶ ፕሮግራም የድሜ ዘመን ማስታወሻ ሻይን ፎቶና ቪዲዮ (Shine Photo & Video) ይሁን ምርጫዎ!!ይደውሉልን +251 912 ...
19/11/2021

ላሰቡት ሠርግ፤ቀለበት፤አንቨርሰሪ፤ልደት አልያም ለሌሎች የፎቶ ፕሮግራም የድሜ ዘመን ማስታወሻ ሻይን ፎቶና ቪዲዮ (Shine Photo & Video) ይሁን ምርጫዎ!!
ይደውሉልን +251 912 47 76 55/942469750

ፎቶ ሻይን ፎቶ እና ቪዲዮ
02/02/2021

ፎቶ ሻይን ፎቶ እና ቪዲዮ

The First Ethiopian traffic in 1945,his weight was 2.42 meter  Source @ Ethio Link
02/02/2021

The First Ethiopian traffic in 1945,his weight was 2.42 meter Source @ Ethio Link

ሰርግዎን፣መልስዎን፣ቀለበትዎን አልያም ሌላ ፕሮግራሞን ምርጥ አድርገን እንሰራልዎታለን፡፡ ታሪኮን ለልጅ ልጅ ማኖር ከፈለጉ ፕሮግራሞን ለከኛ ጋር ያድርጉ፡፡ በአገልግሎታችን እንደሚደሰቱ አንጠራ...
20/04/2018

ሰርግዎን፣መልስዎን፣ቀለበትዎን አልያም ሌላ ፕሮግራሞን ምርጥ አድርገን እንሰራልዎታለን፡፡ ታሪኮን ለልጅ ልጅ ማኖር ከፈለጉ ፕሮግራሞን ለከኛ ጋር ያድርጉ፡፡ በአገልግሎታችን እንደሚደሰቱ አንጠራጠርም!!!!
ይደውሉ +251 912 47 76 55
ፎቶ ሻይን ፎቶ እና ቪዲዮ

07/01/2016

I hope you & your family have wonder full Holiday's. Merry christmass (Gena

CHOOSING A BAG“You want to be able to have a certain amount of balance.” — Dr. Gerard VarlottaThere are a variety of cam...
11/02/2015

CHOOSING A BAG

“You want to be able to have a certain amount of balance.” — Dr. Gerard Varlotta

There are a variety of camera bags to choose from, and picking the right bag depends as much on what you are shooting and what equipment you use as the way your body is built. According to Dr. Karen Erickson, DC many bags are just too bulky for certain body types. Here are some tips on how to pick a bag that won’t break your back.

Equilibrium is Important:
“If you have a heavy item and you are carrying it on one side then you are twisting and tilting and that creates asymmetry, which then can cause problems and irritation.” — Dr. Gerard Varlotta

Unbalance happens easily with over the shoulder messenger bags, which is one reason Dr. Karen Erickson, DC says to avoid them, but it can happen with backpacks too. Dr. Varlotta says over the shoulder bags are okay as long as they aren’t overstuffed. He warned that photographers should avoid any bag with an asymmetrical design. Backpacks that have large compartments on only one side can be problematic.

Don’t Overload It:
“When you are overloading a bag you are going to have some asymmetry in how you’re carrying it.” — Dr. Gerard Varlotta

Never let your camera strap dangle!  Always use the strap in some way.   When shooting, place the strap around your neck...
11/02/2015

Never let your camera strap dangle! Always use the strap in some way. When shooting, place the strap around your neck. In the rare case when the camera is in one hand and the reach of your arm makes the strap around your neck unfeasible, wrap the strap around your hand to secure it. When handing the camera to a friend, make sure to place the strap over his head so it is obvious you are hanging the camera around his neck. The strap is handy and provides a fine measure of security for the camera. It is not optional equipment.
Left hand cradles the camera. You can see that the way my friend has his left hand high up on top of the camera looks unbalanced. Bring your left hand low. Use it to cradle the camera, providing a base for the body to rest on. In this way you are using your left hand to stabilize the camera body as well as conveniently locating it to perform two other critical functions – focus and zoom. Your left hand can also be used to change the apertures on an older lens which has the f-stops located on the lens itself and not the camera.
Right hand pulls the trigger. In this photo my friend has his right hand in the correct position, more or less. I suggest the right hand firmly grip the camera body on its right side. The index (pointer) finger is used to press the shutter release. The middle finger is used to depress the depth of field preview button located on the front, right-hand side of the body. The right thumb is used to rotate the k**b nearest it, on the top right of the body. This changes either the apertures or the shutter speeds, depending upon how your camera is set up.
Protect the lens. It appears that my friend has no lens shade or filter on the front of his lens. I use a UV filter on all of my lenses. It performs a dual role. First it cuts haze and provides a very, very slight warming of the image. But more importantly, the $15 filter protects the $500 lens! It is so easy to have something poke the front of your lens, and the filter can deflect and protect the more delicate lens. Losing a filter beats irreparably damaging the lens any day.

The lens shade also has a dual role. First, under most normal circumstances, it helps to prevent light flaring into the lens. A flare such as this can be very noticeable – ever seen those hexagon white magical designs in the middle of your picture? This is when you notice a flare; a more insidious flare prevents contrast and detail from properly registering or makes a shot overly flat. But again the big deal here is that the $20 lens shade provides added protection for that expensive lens.

Practice holding you camera body and get comfortable using your fingers to make adjustments quickly and smoothly. Protect your camera and associated equipment – it is an investment that can last a lifetime and, if cared for and protected, can even save you money! I will write a more in-depth feature with tips about how to carry, handle, and protect your camera, but for now,

10 ways to maintain the health of your new camera1. Your shutter speed’s too slowTake the effective focal length of your...
10/02/2015

10 ways to maintain the health of your new camera
1. Your shutter speed’s too slow
Take the effective focal length of your lens and divide it into 1 to get the minimum safe handheld shutter speed you should use. For example, with a 200mm equivalent lens, you shouldn’t shoot any slower than 1/200sec or you risk camera shake. You might even get some shake at 1/500sec.
2. You’re placing too much trust in VR
Nikon’s Vibration Reduction system can let you shoot with shutter speeds four stops slower than usual – but don’t count on it. This is a best-case scenario, and it’s wise to assume no more than two stops. VR improves your success rate, it doesn’t guarantee sharpness.
SEE MORE: 11 common lens errors (and how to avoid them)
3. Your subject is moving
Moving subjects will appear blurred at slow shutter speeds, so even if you can hold your camera steady and even if the VR system does a great job, you will still need to use fast shutter speeds for moving subjects.
4. The ISO is too high
Sometimes you have to use really high ISOs just to avoid camera shake, but be aware that at the highest settings you will see a loss of detail. The camera uses noise reduction processes to reduce the appearance of noise, and these erode fine detail too.
SEE MORE: 10 reasons why your photos aren’t sharp (and what you can do about it)
5. Depth of field myths
Depth of field is the zone of near-to-far sharpness within your pictures, but it’s only apparent sharpness, not real sharpness. Depth of field relies on objects looking sharp enough at normal viewing distances and magnifications even though they’re ever so slightly out of focus. If you zoom in far enough, you will see that some objects aren’t completely sharp even when they’re technically within the depth of field limits.
6. Your lens aperture is too small
Small apertures used to be associated with better image quality. That was when lenses were comparatively unsophisticated and cameras used larger formats, such as 35mm and 120 roll film. But at small apertures an unavoidable optical effect called ‘diffraction’ sets in, where fine detail starts to blur. With today’s smaller sensors and sophisticated zoom lens designs, you can see this as early as f/11. If you shoot at f/16 or f/22, your shots will be visibly softer than those shot at wider apertures.
SEE MORE: Getting sharp images – every technique you need to know starting out
7. You’re focused on the wrong thing
Watch the AF points in the camera’s viewfinder. If you’re using auto-area AF, the camera will pick the nearest subject, which may not be what you intended. If you’re using single-point AF, make sure the AF point’s over the correct part of the scene. Tip: on some cameras, including the D3100, it’s very easy to accidentally push the AF point to the right with the base of your thumb as you hold the camera and not notice.
SEE MORE: Master your camera’s autofocus – which AF points to use and when to use them
8. Handheld close-ups shots are risky!
When you’re really close to your subject, the depth of field is so small that the slightest movement on your part will throw your subject out of focus. The more you concentrate on staying still, the more you sway! Higher shutter speeds won’t make the slightest difference – you need a tripod.
9. Focus/recompose errors
It’s often useful to focus on one thing then keep the shutter button half-pressed so that you can recompose the picture and shoot. But in that time, you may have moved, the subject may have moved or, if the camera’s in its default AF-A mode, it make think the subject is moving, switch to AF-C (continuous) operation and attempt to re-focus.
10. Is your lens clean?
If you walk into a humid indoor environment, your lens may mist up, producing a blurry, soft-focus effect. Other causes of blur are greasy smears and fingermarks – so check the front of your lens before blaming the camera.

Best camera cleaners
10/02/2015

Best camera cleaners

10 ways to maintain the health of your new cameraDigital cameras don’t come cheap and it’s only natural that you want to...
10/02/2015

10 ways to maintain the health of your new camera
Digital cameras don’t come cheap and it’s only natural that you want to look after your prized possession. This guide will help you keep your camera in tip-top condition.
1. Clean the exterior
Most of us try to keep our cameras clean, but there are times when they are prone to picking up a bit of dirt, when you’re out shooting low-level fungi on a wet autumn day, for example, you may touch it with a muddy hand. There’s also often a lot mud flying around at some sports events, for instance a local rugby match or even a horse race.
Beach photography is also notorious for producing grubby cameras, the salt and sand is carried on the wind and seems to make a beeline for photographic equipment.
However your camera gets dirty, the important thing is to clean it before removing the lens or opening any of the ports. You don’t want that grime getting inside.
How to clean a camera lens
Your first move should be to wipe off the worst of any mud, if necessary using a very slightly damp cloth. Don’t apply undue pressure and take care to not scratch the camera with any grit that may be in the dirt. Then, once any residue has dried, take a good look around the body checking any joints and seals for dirt.
17 things you can do to help your camera live longer
A blower, canned air or a brush can be useful for removing particles without scratching any delicate surfaces, while a cotton bud can come in handy for cleaning hard to reach areas.
Take particular care with any screens, the viewfinder and the lens to avoid scratching the surfaces. You’ll find that a micro fiber cloth is especially good for giving a camera a final buff.
Camera cleaning – 5 ways to health check your camera with confidence
2. Dry and air
Even if your camera is weatherproof, you should dry it after a shoot if it has been exposed to moisture. Rain and snow are obvious issues, but drizzle, mist, fog and condensation can all do your camera harm.
As soon as you get to a warm, dry place use a cloth to dry the camera and lens. If the lens extends during zooming or focusing, make sure that you dry its entire surface.
Your digital camera’s enemies (and how to defeat them)
Again, you should take particular care to dry the areas around the lens mount and any ports, ideally leaving the camera to air before removing the lens or opening the memory card bay.
If the camera is damp with salt spray, treat it as if it is dirty and give it a through clean, the salt can do serious damage.
3. Keep the body cap or a lens on
A body cap or lens is the camera sensor’s (and DSLR mirror mechanism’s) protection from dust and it’s essential to keep one attached at all times.
When changing lens or putting the body cap on the camera, do so quickly and in a clean environment – never on a windy beach!
Have the cap or lens ready and to hand before exposing the lens mount and make the swap as quickly as you can to minimize the amount of time that dust can get inside the camera.
How to change a camera lens properly
If you are intending to shoot in a harsh environment such as a beach on a windy day or a field at harvest time, decide which lens you need to use before you head out and don’t change optic until you are back in a clean environment and the camera is clean.
4. Activate the automatic sensor cleaning
Digital SLRs and compact system cameras have built-in sensor cleaning systems that vibrate the sensor, or a filter above it to shake off any dust.
This can usually be set to activate when the camera is turned on or off, or both. It’s also usually possible to activate the system for a one-off clean.
Some photographers prefer to set the cleaning to just take place as they turn the camera off because this minimizes the delay when starting-up the camera, but it’s a personal choice and it depends on the type of photography you do. Landscape photographers don’t usually need to react as quickly as street or sports photographers.
5. Check and clean the sensor
Despite the sensor cleaning system mentioned previously, there are some things like sticky pollen that manage to find their way on to a sensor and take more than a good shake to get them off.
SEE MORE: Don’t bite the dust: a perfectly safe guide to sensor cleaning
If you notice that you’re having to clone out marks from your images on a regular basis it’s time to give then sensor a clean. This is easier to do than some people fear and although there are lots of devices available to help you, one of the best is also the simplest – a swab with a drop of cleaning fluid.
Don’t be tempted to use cheap nasty swabs, get something decent from the likes of Visible Dust or www.cameraclean.co.uk that won’t leave more dirt or fibers behind than they remove.
SEE MORE: Camera cleaning: 5 ways to health check your camera with confidence
Make sure that the camera battery is fully charged before activating the manual cleaning mode (this lifts the mirror of an SLR). Then put one drop of sensor cleaning fluid on the swab and swipe it once or twice across the sensor making sure that you get into the corners and don’t touch the sides of the housing.
To check the cleaning has worked, shoot a white (or pale coloured) plain wall and check the image carefully at 100% on a computer screen.
It can be helpful to darken the image or increase contrast to make marks more visible. If there are still marks, clean the sensor again.
READ MORE
How to look after your camera
4 ways to extend the battery life of your camera
49 awesome photography tips and time savers
DSLR Tips: how to clean your camera like a pro
How to look after your camera
4 ways to extend the battery life of your camera
49 awesome photography tips and time savers
DSLR Tips: how to clean your camera like a pro

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