02/02/2025
Varanasi – The City of Life, Death, and Everything in Between
Varanasi is a city like no other. It’s chaotic, spiritual, loud, and peaceful—all at once. In the middle of this lively mix, there’s the Ganga River, the holiest river in Hinduism. People come here to bathe, pray, meditate, and—most notably—say their final goodbyes. It’s believed that dipping in the Ganga washes away sins and helps the soul break free from the cycle of rebirth.
It was here that I met my first real Naga Baba—a man with dreadlocks wrapped into a turban, sitting naked by a small fire in a hidden tent. He wasn’t like the babas I met later in Prayagraj, who often felt like they were auditioning for a role in a Bollywood movie. This one was the real deal—serene, detached, and in no mood for camera clicks. He gave me a blessing, though it was clear he wasn’t thrilled about the photo session.
Who are the Naga Babas?
Naga Babas are extreme Hindu ascetics who renounce everything—family, possessions, and clothing—to devote their lives to Lord Shiva. They live in remote areas—like mountains, forests, or near the Ganga. They cover themselves in ash, meditate deeply, and live without attachment to worldly things. If you ever visit the Kumbh Mela, you’ll probably see them walking around naked, covered in ash, and carrying tridents—because why not?
Death at the Ganga – The Burning Ghats and Shaving Heads
One of the most striking experiences in Varanasi is witnessing the burning ghats—cremation sites along the river. Men carry bundles of wood for the cremations, as bodies wrapped in colorful cloth await their final rites. Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi and being cremated by the Ganga frees the soul from the cycle of rebirth.
Before the body is burned, several rituals take place. The family dips the body in the Ganga to purify it. Then, it’s placed on a bamboo stretcher, covered in an orange cloth, and decorated with marigold flowers. Sandalwood oil is often applied for fragrance and to make the process feel more sacred. The pyre is built with various types of wood, with sandalwood being the preferred choice for those who can afford it. The eldest son or closest male relative shaves his head, wears white, and performs the final rites by lighting the pyre from the sacred fire of the ghat. After hours of burning, some bones remain—typically the chest bone for men and the hip bone for women. These bones, along with the ashes, are collected and immersed in the Ganga during the final ritual, which helps the soul reach moksha.
Shaving heads - this is part of the mourning process. When a mother dies, men shave their entire head. For a father’s death, they leave a small section of hair at the crown, known as a choti or shikha, as a sign of respect. Some widows also shave their heads, though this practice is becoming less common as time passes.
The Wood and the Cost of Cremation
Now, here's the fun part—how much wood does it take to burn a body, and how much does it cost?
Each cremation requires a significant amount of wood, generally between 250 to 400 kilograms (about 550 to 880 pounds) depending on the size of the body and the type of wood used. The cost of wood varies, but a standard cremation in Varanasi could cost around ₹1,500 to ₹5,000 (roughly €20 to €60)—again, depending on the wood and the rituals. The cost can go up significantly if sandalwood is used, as it’s much more expensive. Some families might even spend over ₹10,000 (around €120) for a “premium” cremation if they want to ensure the process is done with the finest materials.
Life Among the Dead
Even with the cremations happening, life continues on the ghats. People meditate, paint, sell art, and some even pretend to be holy men to get donations. Meanwhile, stray dogs and cows snack on marigold petals that have fallen from funeral processions. And then there are the people who sleep right next to the burning bodies—completely unbothered by the flames.
But Varanasi isn’t all about death. At the wedding ghat, you can find newly married couples seeking blessings. Some even get married here, though I didn’t catch a full wedding myself—just couples doing photoshoots with the river as a romantic backdrop.
Varanasi is a place of contrasts—life and death, the real and the fake, devotion and performance. Everything blends together on the banks of the Ganga. Whether you’re here for the blessings, the rituals, or just trying to make sense of it all, one thing’s for sure: Varanasi is a place you won’t forget.
