SD Photography

SD Photography The Paparazzo is back. New in form, name and has a lot in store for you. Visit us! :)
P.S: Feel free to ask me if you have queries.

15/11/2015
27/10/2015
17/08/2015

Okay! so here's something new again.
Today lets talk about the variation in scenes while shooting.

1. Landscape : It is a static scene. It's not moving anywhere. So take your time and think more from aperture point of view and decide how much of the image has to be in good focus and use the aperture value accordingly. Don't worry tomuch about shutter speed if there isn't too much movement happening in the the landscape( water flowing, people walking, cars moving etc).
Tripod definitely recommended here.

2. Wildlife : Depending on the the subject being still or moving, you may have to think more about what shutter speed to use to freeze the subject or create motion blur(panning). Aperture is also important as it plays an important role of how much of the subject you want to keep in focus.

3. Candid Shots : Depending on the subject, moving or static, you need to think about what aperture/speed to use. You probably have got a hang by now about what takes priority for a given shot depending on whats happening in the scene.

4. Events : When you are shooting events like stage plas, low light photography, you need to watch out for shutter speed. You may have to increase the ISO to get a faster shutter speed. ( also don't forget to get an unobtrusive background to highlight the foreground even more).

5. Macro/close-up : If the subjects is static, it does not matter if you shoot at 1/10 or 1/1000 shutter speed. So you need to think from aperture point of view. Decide what kind of DOF ( Depth of Field ) you need based on lens and subject distance. Tripod recommended.

6. Sports : Work on the shutter speed for this one.

Happy Shooting.

14/08/2015
11/08/2015

NOTE : White Balance.
The easiest way to describe white balance is by way of colour temperature which in itself is a way of measuring the quality and intensity of a light source. This is based on the ratio of blue and red light hitting the sensor, with the green light being ignored.

You may sometimes see a red or yellow cast in your images when shooting indoors with natural light? This is caused by using the incorrect white balance. To correct these casts in Photoshop, go here.

The unit for measuring this ratio between red and blue is known as degree Kelvin or K. Therefore, a light scenario with a higher colour temperature such as bright, sunny blue skies has more “blue” lights and a higher Kelvin Value. Whereas a light with a much lower colour temperature such as a candle flame, has a lower Kelvin value with more “red” lights.

The following values are approximate but should give you an idea of how this is seen in most photographic situations.

Light Source Colour Temp in K
Clear Blue Sky 9,000 to 15,000
Overcast Sky 6,000 to 8,000
Noon Sun and Clear Sky 6,500
Sunlight Average 5,400 to 6,000
Electronic Flash 5,400 to 6,000
Household Lighting 2,500 to 3,000
200-watt Bulb 2,980
100-watt Bulb 2,900
75-watt Bulb 2,820
60-watt Bulb 2,800
40-watt Bulb 2,650
Candle Flame 1,200 to 1,500


The human eye is perfect at adjusting to these fluctuations and will see a piece of white paper, for example, as white whether you look at it outside in bright sunshine or inside by candlelight.

Your camera, on the other hand, will have more difficulty.

When using emulsion films, you have a choice of using daylight or tungsten sensitivity, but with digital, most adjustments need to be made “in-camera”.


Most digital cameras have built-in sensors or “Auto White Balance” to measure the current colour temperature and then use an algorithm to process the image correctly.

The final result may very well be close to what we see with our eyes, but the algorithms being used may not be accurate enough to make every situation or image correct.

If you or the camera set the temperature or WB incorrectly, you will notice some colour shift or “cast” in your pictures.

For example, if you are shooting indoors under normal household lights but set your white balance to that of outdoors, your camera will expect excessive blue light, less red and adjust accordingly. However, the light from most bulbs has a low colour temperature or “K” value thereby having more red light than blue.

The resulting image will have a reddish or yellow appearance which can be corrected by either going to manual (white balance) on your camera, and reducing the WB setting until correct or playing around with the colours in an editing program during post processing (more on that later).

Similarly, if you set the cameras white balance temperature low to around 2,500 and take a shot outdoors, the camera will expect more “red” light and adjust its algorithms accordingly. Of course, the actual scene has more blue light and less red and the result will be an image with a cool, blue look to it.

The beauty of digital photography means that you can…

1.Take a test shot
2.Check the white balance
3.Adjust accordingly
4.Take another shot
5.Delete all tests
6.Get the picture right

For most situations, your cameras AWB (Auto-White-Balance) mode is good enough. Any minor fluctuations can be dealt with during post-processing although there may be times when you need to get out of your “comfort zone” and go manual.

11/08/2015

After the 10 basic rules of getting yourself a proper composition Here's Something new.
A little confused with all the complex terms...Well all you need is dedication. Here's a little bit on all the complex jargons of photography that revolves around 3 important aspects-
1. ISO
2. Aperture and
3. Shutter Speed.
All these combined, forms the EXPOSURE TRIANGLE.
Get your understanding on these 3 right and the rest will be easy to follow.
So... let's start this up.

Q1. What is shutters peed?
A : It is the amount of time the shutter is open for the light to enter and hit the sensor. This is responsible for freezing the action or causing motion blur in your image.A fast shutter speed like 1/1000 or more freezes the action and a slow shutter speed like 1/30 less will cause motion blur in the images(though fast and slow shutter speed is very subjective and depends on the speed of movement of subjects).

Q2. What is aperture?
A : This is the lens opening (quite like the eye's pupil). this is responsible for controlling the amount of light entering the camera.Aperture is of the parameters responsible for depth of field(other 2 are focal length of the lens being used and the subject to camera distance).Depth of field(DOF) is the area in your photograph that is in sharp focus.A larger f number like f22 fives you larger depth of field and a smaller f number like f2.8 gives you shallow DOF. (f number here refers to focal ratio a.k.a relative aperture. In optics, the f-number of an optical system is the ratio of the lens's focal length to the diameter of the entrance pupil. It is a dimensionless number that is a quantitative measure of lens speed, and an important concept in photography.)

Q3. What is ISO?
A : This is responsible for the sensitivity of your sensor to light. the lower the number(ISO 100), less is the sensitivity and higher the ISO(ISO3200>) more is the sensitivity. A higher ISO allows you to shoot in low light conditions. ISO is also responsible for noise/grains in the image. Higher the ISO, more grains and the quality of the image may go down due to increased pixel sensitivity.

04/08/2015
22/07/2015

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