09/30/2024
On a cold afternoon in late 2020 I pulled my Tacoma off the side of a remote highway in northern Arizona and peered over the side of an old bridge. Beneath me was a tight and sinuous crevasse of honey beige, so narrow that without pausing to look intently it would appear as little more than a shallow depression.
Two friends pulled a second battered truck in behind me and hopped out. They were bundled in down vests and jackets and our shells too ward off the wind that always seems to snake through that area. The odd snowflake fluttered around them, seeming to come from nowhere on what was otherwise a clear day.
We dropped into the slot cautiously, as if entering the underbelly of the desert itself. The passage wasn’t steep or forbidding, but the walls squeezed in close, bending into the light like the folds of timeworn fabric. Each step echoed against the carved rock. It wasn’t the most technical canyon, nor did it carry the mystique of remoteness, but there was a simple grandeur in the swirling sandstone. In the light, it gleamed in soft gradients of red and ochre, drawing us deeper, turning a short descent into something larger than it appeared on the surface.
The signs of intrusion weren’t far off—scraps of metal and weathered plastic tucked into the shadows where sand met stone. An engine block had found a strange second life here, corroded and crumbling, but tethered with an anchor that dangled off its side. Whoever left it hadn’t cared much for where they abandoned it, yet there was something strangely captivating about it, the contrast between rusted machine and the unyielding, sculpted earth.
We emerged from the slot as the late afternoon sun stretched out before us. Ahead, a great lake shimmered beneath us, its edges soft and blurred in the growing dusk. The sandstone bluff rose like a sentinel, and we climbed it, the smooth, wind-polished surface offering no easy hold but inviting us to scramble higher nonetheless. From the top, the vastness unfolded, the water's edge licking at the shores of the desert, as if time had paused just for this moment of silence and wind.