08/02/2024
ON THIS DAY: A FRENCH FEDORA AND MICHAEL'S ADMIRATION FOR MILLNER JEANNIE LANVIN'S HOUSE OF LANVIN
Having been friendly with the Lanvin family of France, I was happy to be introduced to the history of the great French Millner, Madame Jeanne Lanvin. This family maintains an immense style.
Visiting their château in the countryside of France is one of my great memories. Ms. Meryl Lanvin served lunch on a cabbage green and eggshell-colored set of porcelain, after Mr. Bernard Lanvin provided a tour of his garage, which included exquisite automobiles like the Acura NSX and Ferrari, and the pool house he had built for his son's and their wives.
The Lanvin's kindly filled for me, on an international level, the rhythm from one of my favorite songs by the band America, featuring the lyrics:
"This is for all the lonely people
Thinkin' that life has passed them by
Don't give up until you drink from the silver cup
And ride that highway in the sky"
(Insert link to America's Lonely People: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Sn2tKDZB3I )
They filled the silver cup, because, in addition to the great green and white porcelain, when Mrs. Lanvin served lunch, she also served a nice French wine in a silver cup.
I was able to repay the family's kindness by introducing the Lanvin sons to Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti, when Eva was developing her concept for her publication, Vivre.
Since launching, Vivre Eva has been named one of Vogue’s “ten most stylish women in fashion”. I enjoyed introducing Eva to the Lanvins over dinner at The Paper Moon on 58th Street in Manhattan. The concept of this collaboration at the time made a lot of sense, especially because the Lanvins were creating a concept called World Style.
For me, in business, and life, the concept was that everyone always wins.
Otherwise, what is the point? It is not always simple to accomplish that goal, unless, of course, one brings together the types of the aforementioned World Citizens.
Michael de la Force, Like Magazine, 8.2.24
Jeanne Lanvin: A Pioneer of French Haute Couture
Early Life and Career Beginnings
Jeanne-Marie Lanvin was born on January 1, 1867, in Paris, France, the eldest of 11 children to Constantin Lanvin and Sophie Deshayes. From an early age, Lanvin exhibited a keen interest in fashion. At 16, she began her career as an apprentice milliner (hat maker) at Madame Félix in Paris. This apprenticeship laid the foundation for her future in fashion, providing her with essential skills and experience in the industry.
Establishing Her Own Brand
In 1889, at the age of 22, Lanvin opened her own millinery shop on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Her shop quickly gained popularity for its exquisite hats, and her business began to flourish. In 1895, she married Count Emilio di Pietro, an Italian nobleman, and had her only child, Marguerite, in 1897. The marriage, however, ended in divorce in 1903, and Lanvin later remarried Xavier Melet, a journalist, in 1907.
Transition to Haute Couture
Lanvin's transition from millinery to haute couture began in 1909 when she started designing dresses for her daughter, Marguerite. The elegant and youthful designs caught the attention of other mothers, who began requesting similar outfits for their children. This demand led Lanvin to expand her creations to include children's clothing and eventually women's wear.
The House of Lanvin
By 1909, Lanvin had officially established her fashion house, "House of Lanvin." She became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture (Parisian Fashion Council), which marked her transition from milliner to a recognized fashion designer. Lanvin's designs were characterized by their use of luxurious fabrics, intricate embellishments, and a distinctive color palette, including the famous "Lanvin blue." Her designs often featured elements inspired by different cultures, such as Aztec embroidery and Orientalist influences.
Iconic Designs and Innovations
Lanvin introduced several iconic designs that left a lasting impact on the fashion industry:
Robe de Style: Introduced in 1913, this design featured billowy, full skirts inspired by 18th-century fashion. It became immensely popular and influenced future designers, including Christian Dior.
Chemise Dress: This unfitted, column-like dress became synonymous with the 1920s and was worn by women worldwide.
Menswear: In 1926, Lanvin expanded her brand to include menswear, making her the first designer to offer clothing for the entire family.
Expansion and Legacy
Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, Lanvin's fashion house continued to grow. She ventured into the perfume industry, releasing the classic fragrance Arpège in 1927. Lanvin also opened stores in various French cities, including Cannes, Nice, and Biarritz. Her designs attracted high-profile clients, including movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Yvonne Printemps, and Mary Pickford.
Lanvin's ability to blend business acumen with creative vision allowed her to expand her brand into various lines, including swimwear, casual wear, fur, lingerie, and home décor. Her innovative use of color and fabric, along with her attention to detail, set her apart as a pioneer in the fashion industry.
Later Life
Jeanne Lanvin continued to design and manage her fashion house until her death on July 6, 1946, in Paris. Her daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche de Polignac, took over the business, ensuring that Lanvin's legacy lived on. The House of Lanvin remains one of the oldest French fashion houses still in existence, continuing to produce high-end fashion and perfumes.
Influence and Recognition
Jeanne Lanvin's contributions to fashion have been widely recognized. Her innovative designs and business strategies influenced many future designers and helped shape the fashion industry. The enduring popularity of her brand and the continued relevance of her designs attest to her lasting impact on haute couture.
In summary, Jeanne Lanvin's journey from a milliner's apprentice to a celebrated haute couture designer exemplifies her talent, creativity, and determination. Her legacy continues to inspire and influence the world of fashion, making her a true icon in the industry.
Other French hat makers include one of the most famous men's fedora hat makers in France, which is Borsalino, although it is actually an Italian brand.
Founded in 1857 by Giuseppe Borsalino in Alessandria, Italy, it is renowned for its luxury hats, including the fedora, which is characterized by its wide brim and creased crown. Borsalino has become a symbol of elegance and sophistication in men's fashion, making it a sought-after brand for high-quality fedoras.
In addition to Borsalino, Chapellerie Traclet in France offers a wide selection of fedora hats, including those made by Borsalino. They are known for their quality products and provide a variety of styles suitable for different occasions.
While Borsalino is the standout name in luxury fedora production, other brands like Mossant, which was historically significant in
French hat-making, also produced high-quality fedoras before ceasing operations in 1998. Mossant was known for its craftsmanship and was a prominent player in the hat industry during the early 20th century.
These brands exemplify the rich tradition of fedora-making, combining style with quality craftsmanship.
Today there are several renowned French hat makers specialize in men's hats, particularly berets, which are iconic in French culture. Here are some of the most notable:
Maison Laulhère
Founded in 1840, Maison Laulhère is highly regarded for its traditional French berets. The company produces high-quality headwear in France, utilizing unique methods that blend tradition with modern fashion. They offer a variety of berets, including the classic Basque beret, available in multiple colors and styles for both men and women.
Chapeaux d'Angèle
Located in Bayeux, Normandy, Chapeaux d'Angèle was established in 2014 by designer Angélique Latscha. This shop offers a selection of men's and women's hats, including traditional berets from the premier brand Laulhère. The store emphasizes quality and authenticity, providing a range of stylish options for hat enthusiasts.
Anthony Peto
Anthony Peto is another notable French hat maker with boutiques in Paris and Dublin. Known for quality handmade hats, Peto's workshop produces a variety of styles suitable for both men and women, emphasizing craftsmanship and design.
These makers exemplify the rich tradition of French hat-making, particularly in the realm of berets, which remain a fashionable accessory for men.