08/17/2026
During our stay at Brooks Lodge last month, Michelle, her daughter Chiara, and I made the trip out to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes - and it’s hard to put into words just how otherworldly that landscape feels. I captured a time-lapse video at the Robert Griggs Visitor Center, watching cloud shadows pass over the canyons. Even standing there in calm weather, you can imagine the violence that shaped everything in front of you.
The region was devastated in 1912 by the Novarupta eruption - the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century and one of the most powerful in recorded history. Over about 60 hours, Novarupta expelled more than three cubic miles of ash and pumice, burying the surrounding region under deposits hundreds of feet thick. For years afterward, the valley steamed from thousands of fumaroles, giving rise to the name “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.”
What captivated me even more was reading Robert Griggs’ account of the first scientific expedition into the valley in 1915–16, published in the January 1917 issue of National Geographic. Griggs and his team pushed into a landscape no one had ever seen - a vast, smoking wasteland of ash canyons, boiling vents, and freshly carved gorges. His descriptions of navigating unstable ash slopes, crossing newly formed chasms, and witnessing the eruption's raw aftermath are absolutely riveting. It’s one thing to stand there today, with the valley quiet and the fumaroles long gone; it’s another to imagine what it looked like when Griggs' expedition first walked into it, still alive with heat and steam.
Being there in person - watching the clouds roll across the same terrain Griggs described - was one of the most memorable moments of our time in Katmai. The valley is stark, immense, and humbling. A reminder of how quickly the Earth can remake itself - and revegetate itself - and how small we are in the face of that kind of power.
I'll be sharing more photographs and videos later.