14/07/2020
"Awe. Sondag lyk mal" which basically translates to "hey. Sunday looks insane" These words from is what started the journey. He didn't even have to say what or where. I looked at the charts and knew exactly what he was talking about. The next day we met up behind masks, bumped elbows and shared a knowing smile. We knew today was going to be special. An hour and some change later we arrived at the parking lot and saw our first glimpse of the wave for the day. It was not what we expected. A bit wobbly and small and the tide seemed wrong. Some talk on the rocks suggested going elsewhere but we decided to give it some more time. About an hour later we saw the bombs roll in with the set. It was on. and I quickly suited up and made our way down the path. I got to the channel in the chilly West Coast water and saw someone go for the backflip. It was good to be alive! I saw Allan take a few waves, some decent ones but nothing crazy. The lulls between sets were long but Allan was patiently waiting for the right one. Out of nowhere Jordy and I saw a huge wall of a wave mount up, I was out of position for this one. I paddled as hard as I could to get out of the impact zone and just managed to lift my housing in time for this one. It was glorious! Definitely one of the biggest ones of the day. We were screaming as Allan dropped and made the bottom turn. I was holding my breath as he locked in and I squeezed the trigger as hard as I could...
I did not think I got this shot and only saw on the drive back that I did and I'm so glad I did. Massive respect to all the chargers out there that day. It was a sight to behold!