17/08/2024
Part 2 of 3: The Kgalagadi Experience
Travelling from Witsand to the Kgalagadi was a case of setting out after a relaxing start and getting there as quickly as possible to be able to enjoy the limited time in the park. The scenery leading from Witsand to the Kgalagadi is ever changing. There were a few surprises along the way, which included seeing the Scimitar Oryx, which is basically extinct in the wild and through breeding projects is being brought "back to life" as such. Seeing the Salt mines along the way is always a bit of a treat and adds some flavour to the trip. There are a number of salt pans along the way to view and if you have the time you can head off the main road and go explore. Something I still need to do.
Before arriving at the Kgalagadi you travel through the seemingness endless rolling red dunes and then along the Kuruman River, a dry river bed, but home to thousands of beautiful Camel Thorns, some of which have vultures nests. After turning off towhead towards the Park you drive along the SA Botswana border. There are some great stops along the way including Molopo Lodge, Kalahari Trails (This is a must stop spot if you want to enjoy the Kalahari on foot and get close to the creatures you will in all likelihood miss whilst driving through the Kgalagadi and having spent many nights here in the past, I can still highly recommend this spot), and lots of other stops. What cannot be mistaken are the days gone by when this stretch of road was at times horribly corrugated dirt road that shook every fibre of your body, and this at times stretched into the park and there were more than one caravan that was literally shaken to pieces. This road is now tarred and an easy drive.
Arriving at the gate the next chapter begins.
The South African section of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, is situated in narrow horn nestled between Namibia and Botswana. This protected area famous for its predator and raptor sightings never fails to produce something beautiful. Not having visited the park since the early 2000’s I was able to sneak a quick visit in prior to heading to Augrabies Falls National Park to shoot the Augrabies Klipspringer Trail Run. Some early advice is prior booking is pretty essential, especially for the more northern camps. I was lucky enough to squeeze into Tweerivieren, situated at the entrance to the park. And lets say much has changed since early the early 2000’s. There’s a new entrance, and new policies, which make sense. In the past it was a race to the gate to wait for it to be opened. Today you need to check out and tell the staff where you are heading, and then on return to check in again to say you are safe and sound. Once leaving the camp, you head out in the direction you choose.
This year the southern area seemed really dry, but further north, there had been good rains and the dunes were covered in a blanket of grass, something I hadn’t experienced before. I headed towards Mata Mata and then took the dune road to end up on the eastern side of the reserve and head back to camp along the Nassob River. Catching the late sun on the grasses and camelthorns on the dune road was intoxicating, and every fiber of me resisted popping up my drone to get the photos I really wished for, but as drones are not allowed in the reserve, I resisted. Around every corner on the dune road was a spectacular scene, not in terms of wildlife, but simply scenic beauty. The res sands set against a blue sky, highlighted later by the late afternoon sun, soon turn the grasses into a shimmering silver and golden landscape.
After reaching the Nassob River, it was a treat to see small herds of Wildebeest, Spingbok, Gemsbok, Ostriches, Reb Hartebeest, the odd Steenbok and one can’t help but mention the cute and seemingly cuddly ground squirrels. But as most people experience in the Kgalagadi, the time times for the race to the gate and back before the gate closes. It is at times like this that one values deflating your tyres to reduce the impact on the road and soften the feeling on the corrugations. Happily the roads were in really good condition and it was generally smooth sailing whilst taking the views into account. And of course having a vehicle with great suspension helps. Having driven an Amarok for a number of years, I recently switched to the new Ford Ranger and honestly have not been disappointed. In saying this there are all forms of vehicles on the roads, from old to young, sedans to fully kitted 4x4's with everything and then some more. So do not be afraid to go even if you have a small car.
Tweerevieren may be the Skukuza of the Kgalagadi, for those that have spent time in the Kruger National Park. I will be honest, and say it is not my favourite camp, and that’s simply a personal view and in reality, any camp you can get into is a privilege. The upgrades are impressive and the shop was well stocked. On our visit there was a shortage of Petrol, but that was no problem for the next gen Ford Ranger I was driving.
After a comfortable night camping, the usual sound of people rushing to be first in line to get out is the norm. The early morning cacophony of clanging camping equipment, the roaring to life of the myriad of 4x4’s mixed in with the beautiful tranquility of the Kgalagadi. Heading out along the main route to Nassob in hope of catching a sighting of predators was rewarded with the usual sights of game, the early morning sunning of the Meerkats and the golden rays of the early morning light lighting up the river bed. Unfortunately, time was never going to my friend as the need to get to Augrabies was ever increasing.
This fleeting visit simply reminded me of how precious this part of South Africa is, wedged between Botswana and Namibia and how our actions across the globe could lead to the slow degradation of this desert paradise. The Red sands of the Kalahari are special and once you have experienced their beauty you loose a piece of your heart when you leave, but gain a treasure-trove of memories and in all likelihood a few memory cards of photos and videos.
I strongly suggest booking early and planning well. You are in a desert and it can get really hot and really cold, so be prepared for both. Important gear, first and foremost binoculars as the animals are not always next to the vehicles, then your camera gear, water (lots of it), a spare tyre, toilet paper (all toilet facilities we visited had toilet paper, but you just never know when you may need some), sunscreen, lip balm, snacks.
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