RICH on Photography

26/06/2015

We will be visiting Port Elizabeth soon and showing you how we achieved this shot...absolutely LOVE this style of photography.

Make sure you book your spot in our workshop. Contact us on [email protected]

18/05/2015

15/05/2015

Lets play a game...100 Brownie Point to the photographer that guesses the number of flashes used for this shot?

And an extra 50 points for for the venue :P

14/05/2015

A quick little feature on PhotoAddict :)

http://www.photoaddict.co.za/2015/05/quick-tip-on-using-single-focus-point/

Over the past few months I have spent a lot of time arming myself with more knowledge on photography and the equipment involved, one key little tip I learned was to move the focus point in my viewf...

14/05/2015

Just the other day I was trying to explain to a fellow photographer why its important to use Single Point Focus, and when you do, to always MOVE the dot in your viewfinder, rather than focus in the centre and recompose.

Here is a simple diagram to show why your images might be slightly out of focus if you use Single Point and recompose.

Remember, focal point is measured in distance, by focusing and recomposing your focal length is locked and your new "recomposed focal point" will be behind the subject, leaving you with a slightly blurry image.

Rather move your single point to the point at which you want to focus, eyes etc
In the below image, the focus point is moved to the wedding ring.

11/02/2015

With a lot of time invested into something we truly believe in...our website is up and running, constant updates with a few free tips and some advice is something to keep checking out!

www.richonphotography.com

09/02/2015

Our website is almost up and running!

We will be hosting courses this year in Gauteng and Port Elizabeth. From the bottom basics through to balancing flash with natural light and how to kick start your Wedding Photography business.

Here's an example of making a 2 light set up still look natural

02/02/2015

This passed weekend we popped in at our local park for some actions shots...this is what we used and what we did:

Equipment:
Nikon D800
2 x Nikon SB910 (off camera using PocketWizards)
Nikon 14-24mm 2.8

When dealing with fast moving objects, a fast shutter is always key...EXCEPT when you using flash.

Why? When your shutter opens, and a subject or image is dark or in a silhouette, a flash will be the only thing lighting that object for a split second, therefore its the only time the sensor can see that subject (lit up). Therefore "freezing" the image as often referred to.

So what was our settings?
Firstly...Apeture - F11, get a lot in focus, and bring that blue in the sky out and a bit of a star effect on the sun.

Secondly...Shutter - 1/250sec, this is more than ample to "freeze" your subject when using flash, and also the shutter isn't too high (using PocketWizards) to kill flash output.

Finally...ISO - 250
Why 250? Well it was right for the time of day, any higher and the sun would've been too bright, any lower and the flash power would have been too weak.

Both the flashes were set on full power about 2 meters back for equipment safety :)

29/01/2015

Posed or Natural Photos...as a photographer have you thought about what your approach is?

http://www.richphotography.co.za/ #!A-Brides-Choice-Posed-Moments-or-Natural-Moments/c1gym/0FC2D78F-2605-4186-959A-A3C82A4EDA0B

There are various styles of wedding photography, Im not referring to different image styles such as flash, natural light etc. Im talking about posing people, ...

26/01/2015

One of the most debated subjects...

Natural Light VS Flash/Strobe

Here is an example with a brief explanation:

Image 1 - Flash/Strobe:
When shooting with flash the FIRST thing to do s
is to expose your camera settings purely for the background, making sure that what your eye sees, you get on camera.
The SECOND thing is to set your flash to the required amount of power to light your subject in the image, this can be done by diffusers, adjusting flash power, or moving your flash further back or closer if your flash is off camera/wireless.

Image 2 - Natural Light:
Shooting natural light only leaves you with one option, that is making sure your exposure is correct for the subject, whether the background be dark, light or whatever, you cannot control it as your subject is the most important thing in the image.

Looking at these 2 images you can see how the colour pops way more when using flash as you choose your background, however natural light gives you a much softer, somewhat 'colourless filter' look.

If you have any questions, drop us a comment :)

22/01/2015

- Have you got a zoom lens?
- Have you ever wondered why you have so much zoom, and why some images look better than others?

Then you probably need to understand why you should zoom. Zooming isn't to capture something in the distance, it helps with, what you could call tunnel vision, as we like to call it, 'Choosing your Background!'

Here is a sequence of the same model in the same spot. This is what we did:

We kept ALL our settings the same, in Image 1 we stood right in front of the model and took a shot at 24mm zoom (zoomed right out), we then stepped further back, zooming in each time to get the same crop.

Eventually we ended up about 15 meters back and zoomed in at 200mm (fully zoomed in) getting a gorgeous, soft, selective background.

So if you have a zoom lens, go out, try it, take a shot zoomed out, then fully zoomed in, the key is to crop your subject the same each time (e.g. from the hips to the top of the head, or feet to head etc)

22/01/2015

It doesn't matter what you doing in photography...the basics will never change.

We have put together a simple Exposure Triangle for you to fall back on whenever you are in doubt.